11/1/18 - Day 11
Today we explored Nansen and Enterprise Islands by kayak. The first
part of our trip was in the lee of Nansen and in almost windless
conditions we were wowed by steep and stunning ice-scapes. Progress was
initially very slow as we constantly stopped for photos. The shoreline
was mostly ice cliffs that would periodically calve into the sea with a
thundering crash. These were slightly alarming moments as a big calving
can create a large wave. Avalanches would also occasionally crash down
from the peaks as we had 30 cm of snow yesterday.
Places to safely land without risk of being hit by falling ice were not
that common but we found a small island/large rock with a snow dome and
sufficient beach for lunch. Completely sheltered from the wind on a
cloudless day we ate lunch in shirt sleeves.
From here we entered an area of brash ice that was lots of fun to
paddle through. Under the warm sun the ice blocks were constantly
popping – almost like the sound of parrot fish chewing coral. We
eventually turned back near the end of Nansen Island and retraced our
steps, with a bit more speed now that we had photographed ourselves out.
Occasional odd shaped large bergs would require a stop and a leopard
seal briefly delayed us, but mostly we paddled steadily on mirror calm,
deep, black water.
Our circumnavigation of Enterprise Island provided quite a contrast as
we were exposed to the stronger winds and chop of the SW breeze. For a
while we paddled through Iceberg Alley, a region of stranded icebergs.
It was stunning, but uncomfortable to stop for photos in the cross chop.
By the time we returned to Spirit of Sydney we were back in the sun and
shelter after a 23 km paddle. The crew had cooked us dinner and scooped
a block of ice out of the sea for the gin and tonics, making a great end
to an amazing day.
Ross
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