11/1/18 - Day 11
Today we explored Nansen and Enterprise Islands by kayak. The first
part of our trip was in the lee of Nansen and in almost windless
conditions we were wowed by steep and stunning ice-scapes. Progress was
initially very slow as we constantly stopped for photos. The shoreline
was mostly ice cliffs that would periodically calve into the sea with a
thundering crash. These were slightly alarming moments as a big calving
can create a large wave. Avalanches would also occasionally crash down
from the peaks as we had 30 cm of snow yesterday.
Places to safely land without risk of being hit by falling ice were not
that common but we found a small island/large rock with a snow dome and
sufficient beach for lunch. Completely sheltered from the wind on a
cloudless day we ate lunch in shirt sleeves.
From here we entered an area of brash ice that was lots of fun to
paddle through. Under the warm sun the ice blocks were constantly
popping – almost like the sound of parrot fish chewing coral. We
eventually turned back near the end of Nansen Island and retraced our
steps, with a bit more speed now that we had photographed ourselves out.
Occasional odd shaped large bergs would require a stop and a leopard
seal briefly delayed us, but mostly we paddled steadily on mirror calm,
deep, black water.
Our circumnavigation of Enterprise Island provided quite a contrast as
we were exposed to the stronger winds and chop of the SW breeze. For a
while we paddled through Iceberg Alley, a region of stranded icebergs.
It was stunning, but uncomfortable to stop for photos in the cross chop.
By the time we returned to Spirit of Sydney we were back in the sun and
shelter after a 23 km paddle. The crew had cooked us dinner and scooped
a block of ice out of the sea for the gin and tonics, making a great end
to an amazing day.
Ross
--
Saturday, 13 January 2018
Time on the Water
Guvernoren Harbour, Enterprise Island (64° 32' S, 61° 60' W) - 10/1/18
This blog covers the last few days. As planned we picked up the kayaks
in Deception Island the day after visiting the chinstrap penguin colony,
and after setting them up (they are brand new) we took them for a short
spin around Whalers Bay. We also walked up to Neptune's Window, a
collapsed part of the volcanic cone that allows you to look out from
inside the island to the sea. The steam rising off the beach is a
constant reminder that this place is a geothermal hotbed.
After our kayaking test-drive we had to hoist the boats aboard and stow
them away. The weather forecast was a bit wild overnight and the next
day so everything was lashed down tightly in preparation. It's great
seeing our seven bright yellow kayaks lined up either side down the deck.
Early the next morning (on the 9th) we set sail through the Bransfield
Strait headed down to Enterprise Island. We had grotty weather as it
snowed all day, but good wind behind us. Searching ahead for icebergs in
visibility of <1km can be scary stuff. We have the radar to help but it
doesn't always pick up the bergs – they can be peculiarly shaped, and
some of them stealthily stay off our screen. The only solution is to
constantly have a few sets of eyes looking ahead.
We made it to Murray Harbour at Bluff Island for the night. Nestled in
behind a little island off to the side we had good protection from the
wind. We kept anchor watches throughout the night for 90 minutes each as
precaution against wandering icebergs. Even at 2am the light here is
still plenty to see by, and we checked up on the large iceberg to the
north every so often to make sure he didn't get any ideas!
The plan was kayaking or hiking the next day if weather permitted, but
it didn't, so we continued south to reach Enterprise Island. Our mooring
here is our most solid yet – we are tied up in a little nook against a
wrecked whaling boat from 1915 (the Guvernoren) and the shelter provided
is excellent. We have company as well, two Austrians who have been
sailing for the last EIGHT years together. Having them over for a
barbecue dinner and listening to their tales was the highlight of the day.
The weather forecast is looking better for the next few days and we are
in an area with lots to see and do, so we are expecting more time off
the boat and less sailing in coming days.
Liam
--
This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using GMN's
XGate software. Please be kind and keep your replies short.
This blog covers the last few days. As planned we picked up the kayaks
in Deception Island the day after visiting the chinstrap penguin colony,
and after setting them up (they are brand new) we took them for a short
spin around Whalers Bay. We also walked up to Neptune's Window, a
collapsed part of the volcanic cone that allows you to look out from
inside the island to the sea. The steam rising off the beach is a
constant reminder that this place is a geothermal hotbed.
After our kayaking test-drive we had to hoist the boats aboard and stow
them away. The weather forecast was a bit wild overnight and the next
day so everything was lashed down tightly in preparation. It's great
seeing our seven bright yellow kayaks lined up either side down the deck.
Early the next morning (on the 9th) we set sail through the Bransfield
Strait headed down to Enterprise Island. We had grotty weather as it
snowed all day, but good wind behind us. Searching ahead for icebergs in
visibility of <1km can be scary stuff. We have the radar to help but it
doesn't always pick up the bergs – they can be peculiarly shaped, and
some of them stealthily stay off our screen. The only solution is to
constantly have a few sets of eyes looking ahead.
We made it to Murray Harbour at Bluff Island for the night. Nestled in
behind a little island off to the side we had good protection from the
wind. We kept anchor watches throughout the night for 90 minutes each as
precaution against wandering icebergs. Even at 2am the light here is
still plenty to see by, and we checked up on the large iceberg to the
north every so often to make sure he didn't get any ideas!
The plan was kayaking or hiking the next day if weather permitted, but
it didn't, so we continued south to reach Enterprise Island. Our mooring
here is our most solid yet – we are tied up in a little nook against a
wrecked whaling boat from 1915 (the Guvernoren) and the shelter provided
is excellent. We have company as well, two Austrians who have been
sailing for the last EIGHT years together. Having them over for a
barbecue dinner and listening to their tales was the highlight of the day.
The weather forecast is looking better for the next few days and we are
in an area with lots to see and do, so we are expecting more time off
the boat and less sailing in coming days.
Liam
--
This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using GMN's
XGate software. Please be kind and keep your replies short.
Tuesday, 9 January 2018
Penguin Domestics
Telefon Bay, Deception Island (62° 56', 60° 41') – 7/1/18 11:30pm
Watching the Chinstrap Penguins today was like watching a soap opera,
but with far more deadly consequences. The chicks were one to three
weeks old, fluffy and very cuddly looking. Returning penguins display
and call to their mates and enter into noisy, mutual displays before
handing over responsibilities for the two chicks. Nesting birds squabble
with their neighbours – seemingly over pebbles for the nest, social
space or just irritating behaviour. Sometimes the squabbles extended
beyond squawking and vicious fights developed with pecking and wing
flapping until the offender was driven from the colony.
Life is not easy for penguins. Returning from the sea after their
40km fishing trip the penguins porpoise in towards shore in schools to
run the gauntlet past patrolling leopard seals. We watched as a seal
caught and then shook a penguin out of its skin, all the better to
gobble down the good bits. The seals may be slower but they have a big
advantage as landing on shore is not easy. The penguins have to time
their landing on the rocks to match the swells and then pop out and
hopefully land upright on the rocks. From here it's a steep climb up to
the rookery and the penguins jump and waddle up the ramp in order to
regurgitate their feed of krill for the youngsters. Walking is not their
strong suit: it's a matter of waddling, flapping and the occasional hop
to beat an undignified file up the hill.
Just as bad as the leopard seals are the ever-vigilant skuas, a nasty
larger form of gull with very little in the way of manners. They are
always flying overhead like angels of death, on the lookout for
unguarded eggs, defenceless babies or even just a weak adult on its own.
If they come anywhere near the colony, the penguins join forces to flap
and peck the intruder away, and the penguin can be vicious despite it's
cute reputation.
Observing the daily life of a penguin makes one think – what would a
visitor think of the daily life of an Antarctic sailing tourist? Our
group of nine is not exactly in its natural element (with a few
exceptions), but we have been adapting well to the pressures of 'boat
life'. The main challenge is dealing with the extremely limited space
and avoiding constantly stepping on each other's toes.
A fundamental principle is that of "pass me the…" or "would you mind
just doing the…". There is so little room to move around in the cabin
that if everyone were to grab whatever they needed or to do the small
thing that needed to be done (the usual, and generally efficient, way of
life at home), we would never get anything done. As a result, if you can
see someone closer to the thing that you need or the small task that
needs to be done, you must ask them without any shame to grab it/do it
for you. Indeed, employing this rule is a virtue, not a sign of sloth.
A few other general points about 'boat life'. Fresh water is extremely
limited, consisting of only the supply we took on board in Ushuaia plus
whatever we make ourselves (using the water desalting machine onboard).
Despite what you might think a water desalting machine doesn't mean
unlimited water – it uses fuel (another rapidly expendable resource) and
isn't amazingly fast. The upshot is that we use salt water whenever we
can: to cook the pasta, the clean the dishes, and to wash our gear. And
for the rest, we use as little fresh water as we can. Taps are never
left running into the drain for any decent period of time, fresh running
showers are non-existent (we use bursts of water at a time to sud up and
rinse down), and in general we try to drink as much of the stuff as we can.
Specific to our climate are a few features. The sun sets at about 11pm
where we are and gets up again at 4am, and as a result we have vast
quantities of daylight hours for activities. This means we have to be
careful to maintain a semblance of routine to avoid becoming uncivilised
– there are very few external cues to tell you to have lunch or to get
ready for bed. Things are definitely getting easier now that we are at
anchor and off the watch system (for now).
Another aspect of Antarctican life is the cold. Sometimes we are treated
to a balmy day, equivalent to a dubious Wellington winter day with a bit
of a gale, and sometimes it's dark, freezing and wholly unfriendly.
Particularly at night, the temperatures drop to single figures or below,
and as a consequence we often sleep rugged up in sleeping bags with a
few pieces of clothing on. Normal shoes wouldn't cut it, so we wear
Crocs or similar on board (insulated gumboots outside while sailing) and
good tramping boots with multiple pairs of socks out on land.
Tomorrow we pick up the kayaks from the cruise ship that has transported
them down for us, and we might manage to fit in a decadent hot pool –
not on board, but on shore, in one of the geothermally heated tidal
pools that are common here on Deception Island. It's sometimes hard to
remember that we are anchored in the crater of an active volcano
sometimes, but two scientific bases were destroyed by eruptions in 1967
and 1969, and the bay we are rested in didn't even exist before then!
Ross/Liam
Watching the Chinstrap Penguins today was like watching a soap opera,
but with far more deadly consequences. The chicks were one to three
weeks old, fluffy and very cuddly looking. Returning penguins display
and call to their mates and enter into noisy, mutual displays before
handing over responsibilities for the two chicks. Nesting birds squabble
with their neighbours – seemingly over pebbles for the nest, social
space or just irritating behaviour. Sometimes the squabbles extended
beyond squawking and vicious fights developed with pecking and wing
flapping until the offender was driven from the colony.
Life is not easy for penguins. Returning from the sea after their
40km fishing trip the penguins porpoise in towards shore in schools to
run the gauntlet past patrolling leopard seals. We watched as a seal
caught and then shook a penguin out of its skin, all the better to
gobble down the good bits. The seals may be slower but they have a big
advantage as landing on shore is not easy. The penguins have to time
their landing on the rocks to match the swells and then pop out and
hopefully land upright on the rocks. From here it's a steep climb up to
the rookery and the penguins jump and waddle up the ramp in order to
regurgitate their feed of krill for the youngsters. Walking is not their
strong suit: it's a matter of waddling, flapping and the occasional hop
to beat an undignified file up the hill.
Just as bad as the leopard seals are the ever-vigilant skuas, a nasty
larger form of gull with very little in the way of manners. They are
always flying overhead like angels of death, on the lookout for
unguarded eggs, defenceless babies or even just a weak adult on its own.
If they come anywhere near the colony, the penguins join forces to flap
and peck the intruder away, and the penguin can be vicious despite it's
cute reputation.
Observing the daily life of a penguin makes one think – what would a
visitor think of the daily life of an Antarctic sailing tourist? Our
group of nine is not exactly in its natural element (with a few
exceptions), but we have been adapting well to the pressures of 'boat
life'. The main challenge is dealing with the extremely limited space
and avoiding constantly stepping on each other's toes.
A fundamental principle is that of "pass me the…" or "would you mind
just doing the…". There is so little room to move around in the cabin
that if everyone were to grab whatever they needed or to do the small
thing that needed to be done (the usual, and generally efficient, way of
life at home), we would never get anything done. As a result, if you can
see someone closer to the thing that you need or the small task that
needs to be done, you must ask them without any shame to grab it/do it
for you. Indeed, employing this rule is a virtue, not a sign of sloth.
A few other general points about 'boat life'. Fresh water is extremely
limited, consisting of only the supply we took on board in Ushuaia plus
whatever we make ourselves (using the water desalting machine onboard).
Despite what you might think a water desalting machine doesn't mean
unlimited water – it uses fuel (another rapidly expendable resource) and
isn't amazingly fast. The upshot is that we use salt water whenever we
can: to cook the pasta, the clean the dishes, and to wash our gear. And
for the rest, we use as little fresh water as we can. Taps are never
left running into the drain for any decent period of time, fresh running
showers are non-existent (we use bursts of water at a time to sud up and
rinse down), and in general we try to drink as much of the stuff as we can.
Specific to our climate are a few features. The sun sets at about 11pm
where we are and gets up again at 4am, and as a result we have vast
quantities of daylight hours for activities. This means we have to be
careful to maintain a semblance of routine to avoid becoming uncivilised
– there are very few external cues to tell you to have lunch or to get
ready for bed. Things are definitely getting easier now that we are at
anchor and off the watch system (for now).
Another aspect of Antarctican life is the cold. Sometimes we are treated
to a balmy day, equivalent to a dubious Wellington winter day with a bit
of a gale, and sometimes it's dark, freezing and wholly unfriendly.
Particularly at night, the temperatures drop to single figures or below,
and as a consequence we often sleep rugged up in sleeping bags with a
few pieces of clothing on. Normal shoes wouldn't cut it, so we wear
Crocs or similar on board (insulated gumboots outside while sailing) and
good tramping boots with multiple pairs of socks out on land.
Tomorrow we pick up the kayaks from the cruise ship that has transported
them down for us, and we might manage to fit in a decadent hot pool –
not on board, but on shore, in one of the geothermally heated tidal
pools that are common here on Deception Island. It's sometimes hard to
remember that we are anchored in the crater of an active volcano
sometimes, but two scientific bases were destroyed by eruptions in 1967
and 1969, and the bay we are rested in didn't even exist before then!
Ross/Liam
Monday, 8 January 2018
Land Ahoy!
Friday 5 January (Drake Passage: 62° 26' S, 62° 12' W)
Today we had our first sight of land at noon, catching glimpse of
towering Smith Island off to starboard. Not long after we sighted Snow
Island directly ahead. The plan is to sail through Boyd Strait between
the two, then off to the east to anchor in Deception Island. Deception
is ideally suited for this purpose with a perfectly sheltered harbour,
as well as being interesting in its own right with an old whaling
station and huge penguin colonies.
Land comes as a most welcome sight after four full days on the 'Drake
Lake'. Touted as one of the wildest parts of the ocean in the world, for
us it has been a slow slog. Our skipper Darrel says this one of the
longest Drake passages he has ever done. The cause is calm weather, flat
seas, and not enough wind from not quite the right direction. The result
is 5 knots when we are burning through diesel and 3-5 knots when the
wind permits sail without use of the motor. When you consider that the
trip to Deception is around 500 nautical miles from Ushuaia, you can see
why it has taken us so long to get here.
Aside from the excitement of seeing land for the first time in five
days, we have also been spotting more and more icebergs. Although it is
heartening to see clear signs of the great white continent, it is also a
sight to make one nervous. These great hunks of ice can spell doom to a
big boat, and for little vessel like ours it could be the end of our
trip, or worse. As we enter the Boyd Strait we will be keenly looking
out for 'bergs', 'bergy bits' and the cutely named but dangerous
'growlers' which make this place their home.
We had some attractive birdlife yesterday. The mottled Cape Petrel has
been our company for the last couple of days and continues to flit
around the yacht intermittently. We were also lucky enough to see a pair
of light-mantled sooty albatrosses yesterday. Getting a clear photo of
these magnificent seabirds can be difficult but we enjoy their company
immensely.
As we come into the South Shetland Islands and then onto the Antarctic
Peninsula proper, we expect to see significant penguin and seal life.
Orcas, whales and leopard seals are all real possibilities as well.
An optimistic view would have us anchored at Deception Island by
midnight tonight. Certainly those who have watch shifts scheduled for
late in the night hope so, perhaps finding a first full night's sleep
since we have entered 2018. We hope for favourable wind, clear skies and
occasional flat seas for our first kayak expeditions – is that too much
to ask for?s
Today we had our first sight of land at noon, catching glimpse of
towering Smith Island off to starboard. Not long after we sighted Snow
Island directly ahead. The plan is to sail through Boyd Strait between
the two, then off to the east to anchor in Deception Island. Deception
is ideally suited for this purpose with a perfectly sheltered harbour,
as well as being interesting in its own right with an old whaling
station and huge penguin colonies.
Land comes as a most welcome sight after four full days on the 'Drake
Lake'. Touted as one of the wildest parts of the ocean in the world, for
us it has been a slow slog. Our skipper Darrel says this one of the
longest Drake passages he has ever done. The cause is calm weather, flat
seas, and not enough wind from not quite the right direction. The result
is 5 knots when we are burning through diesel and 3-5 knots when the
wind permits sail without use of the motor. When you consider that the
trip to Deception is around 500 nautical miles from Ushuaia, you can see
why it has taken us so long to get here.
Aside from the excitement of seeing land for the first time in five
days, we have also been spotting more and more icebergs. Although it is
heartening to see clear signs of the great white continent, it is also a
sight to make one nervous. These great hunks of ice can spell doom to a
big boat, and for little vessel like ours it could be the end of our
trip, or worse. As we enter the Boyd Strait we will be keenly looking
out for 'bergs', 'bergy bits' and the cutely named but dangerous
'growlers' which make this place their home.
We had some attractive birdlife yesterday. The mottled Cape Petrel has
been our company for the last couple of days and continues to flit
around the yacht intermittently. We were also lucky enough to see a pair
of light-mantled sooty albatrosses yesterday. Getting a clear photo of
these magnificent seabirds can be difficult but we enjoy their company
immensely.
As we come into the South Shetland Islands and then onto the Antarctic
Peninsula proper, we expect to see significant penguin and seal life.
Orcas, whales and leopard seals are all real possibilities as well.
An optimistic view would have us anchored at Deception Island by
midnight tonight. Certainly those who have watch shifts scheduled for
late in the night hope so, perhaps finding a first full night's sleep
since we have entered 2018. We hope for favourable wind, clear skies and
occasional flat seas for our first kayak expeditions – is that too much
to ask for?s
Saturday, 6 January 2018
Whales, icebergs and watches
(If you need to contact us email darrel@spiritofsydney.co or
office@outdoor.co.nz)
Thursday 4 January (latitude 61.10 south, temp 11C wind 6 knots! Boat
speed under sail…3.4 knots???!!!)
We have been motor sailing across the Drake Lake for 72 hours in what
has been one of the very few spells of calm in the last two months.
Currently we have 6-10 knots of breeze and with full sails set the boat
is very stable and comfortable apart from the noise and occasional fumes
of the engine. Now sailing slowly to conserve diesel after 72 hours of
motoring.
There is a large iceberg to starboard to remind us of the importance of
maintaining a good lookout. But looking out has served us well with
Darrel spotting a pod of rarely seen Arnoux's beaked whales. In the
almost dead calm we drifted as the pod inspected us for about 10
minutes. Lots of photos and videos, but no clear shots of the beaks as
these emerge first.
The Beagle Channel was a rich source of wildlife as we spotted a
Humpback whale, Dusky and Peels dolphins and an assortment of
albatrosses, petrels and swimming penguins amongst other things.
Most of us, the voyage crew, were introduced to the Spirit of Sydney and
the crew of Darrel and Leo on New Year's Eve when we attended the yacht
club party. Do not imagine anything too swish is meant by the term
"Yacht Club". With plastic chairs and rough tables, it was home to
members appearing to be mostly itinerant yachties, voyage crew like us
and seasoned Antarctic sailors. A wood fired BBQ was the centre of the
kitchen and everyone contributed their steak and chorizo sausages with
Jeannie and Mike whipping up a couple of salads in Spirit's galley.
Dinner and twilight arrived about 11pm and we were all in high spirits
of anticipation for the trip ahead, but quick to retire after 12 in
expectation of a busy day ahead.
Arriving aboard Spirit at 8am the next day we quickly had our gear
stowed, only to be delayed by the boat tied up to us. The owner was
nowhere to be found and eventually, we just moved it ourselves, no small
feat as there was a stiff breeze and it was over 60 ft long. We set off
at 11am on New Year's Day.
The trip down the Beagle is always filled with much anticipation and
excitement, but we gradually settled into our watch keeping routine of
three watches of three hours. This means we are on watch for three
hours then off for six. Every hour one fresh person comes on watch and
this way we each get to spend time with most on board.
Sleep was initially a bit of a challenge. We were all still a bit jet
lagged at the start and New Year's Eve followed by an early start didn't
help. However, we are now settled into the watch routine and are
accustomed to the motion of the boat. There was a spell when we
wallowed in a moderate confused swell with no wind to keep the boat
steady that I found uncomfortable and a few breakfasts were lost that
day. I'm now comfortable writing this and crawling into the forepeak to
get vegetables.
We seem to have a crew of cooks and Spirit is well provisioned, so I
expect future blogs will have many references to food. The only
cookbook I have found is "Fit for a FID", written in 1956 for Antarctic
conditions it has excellent recipes for seal, shag, penguin eggs and
tinned meat. Not sure it is very relevant for us.
We crossed the 60th parallel sometime in the night and are now in the
Antarctic Treaty zone, meaning we aren't allowed to chuck anything
overboard from here on. This morning brought our first sight of icebergs
from the southern continent. We estimate that we will be drawing into
our first harbour at Deception Island sometime late tomorrow, wind and
diesel permitting.
office@outdoor.co.nz)
Thursday 4 January (latitude 61.10 south, temp 11C wind 6 knots! Boat
speed under sail…3.4 knots???!!!)
We have been motor sailing across the Drake Lake for 72 hours in what
has been one of the very few spells of calm in the last two months.
Currently we have 6-10 knots of breeze and with full sails set the boat
is very stable and comfortable apart from the noise and occasional fumes
of the engine. Now sailing slowly to conserve diesel after 72 hours of
motoring.
There is a large iceberg to starboard to remind us of the importance of
maintaining a good lookout. But looking out has served us well with
Darrel spotting a pod of rarely seen Arnoux's beaked whales. In the
almost dead calm we drifted as the pod inspected us for about 10
minutes. Lots of photos and videos, but no clear shots of the beaks as
these emerge first.
The Beagle Channel was a rich source of wildlife as we spotted a
Humpback whale, Dusky and Peels dolphins and an assortment of
albatrosses, petrels and swimming penguins amongst other things.
Most of us, the voyage crew, were introduced to the Spirit of Sydney and
the crew of Darrel and Leo on New Year's Eve when we attended the yacht
club party. Do not imagine anything too swish is meant by the term
"Yacht Club". With plastic chairs and rough tables, it was home to
members appearing to be mostly itinerant yachties, voyage crew like us
and seasoned Antarctic sailors. A wood fired BBQ was the centre of the
kitchen and everyone contributed their steak and chorizo sausages with
Jeannie and Mike whipping up a couple of salads in Spirit's galley.
Dinner and twilight arrived about 11pm and we were all in high spirits
of anticipation for the trip ahead, but quick to retire after 12 in
expectation of a busy day ahead.
Arriving aboard Spirit at 8am the next day we quickly had our gear
stowed, only to be delayed by the boat tied up to us. The owner was
nowhere to be found and eventually, we just moved it ourselves, no small
feat as there was a stiff breeze and it was over 60 ft long. We set off
at 11am on New Year's Day.
The trip down the Beagle is always filled with much anticipation and
excitement, but we gradually settled into our watch keeping routine of
three watches of three hours. This means we are on watch for three
hours then off for six. Every hour one fresh person comes on watch and
this way we each get to spend time with most on board.
Sleep was initially a bit of a challenge. We were all still a bit jet
lagged at the start and New Year's Eve followed by an early start didn't
help. However, we are now settled into the watch routine and are
accustomed to the motion of the boat. There was a spell when we
wallowed in a moderate confused swell with no wind to keep the boat
steady that I found uncomfortable and a few breakfasts were lost that
day. I'm now comfortable writing this and crawling into the forepeak to
get vegetables.
We seem to have a crew of cooks and Spirit is well provisioned, so I
expect future blogs will have many references to food. The only
cookbook I have found is "Fit for a FID", written in 1956 for Antarctic
conditions it has excellent recipes for seal, shag, penguin eggs and
tinned meat. Not sure it is very relevant for us.
We crossed the 60th parallel sometime in the night and are now in the
Antarctic Treaty zone, meaning we aren't allowed to chuck anything
overboard from here on. This morning brought our first sight of icebergs
from the southern continent. We estimate that we will be drawing into
our first harbour at Deception Island sometime late tomorrow, wind and
diesel permitting.
Monday, 1 January 2018
Going going......
About to depart Ushuaia... No more pics for a month... Back to Ushuaia on 27 28 january...
We will post a daily message on here if comms permits
Phil.
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